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- <text id=93TT1736>
- <title>
- May 17, 1993: Milking A Fad
- </title>
- <history>
- TIME--The Weekly Newsmagazine--1993
- May 17, 1993 Anguish over Bosnia
- </history>
- <article>
- <source>Time Magazine</source>
- <hdr>
- HEALTH, Page 53
- MILKING A FAD
- </hdr>
- <body>
- <p>A burgeoning industry is milking fat profits from the faddish
- fear of dairy products
- </p>
- <p>By CHRISTINE GORMAN
- </p>
- <p> Does your breakfast bowl of Cheerios in milk not go down
- as easily as it used to? Do those big double-fudge ice-cream
- bars you love so much leave your stomach feeling queasy these
- days? If so, you may be suffering from an inability to digest
- lactose, the natural sugar found in dairy foods. Or maybe you
- have just swallowed one too many advertisements for Lactaid,
- Dairy Ease and other products that are heavily promoted as a
- remedy for milk-induced indigestion.
- </p>
- <p> If you believe the industry, "lactose intolerance" plays
- intestinal havoc with as many as 50 million Americans. Even
- though many physicians and nutrition experts think the problem
- is not nearly that serious or widespread, increasing numbers of
- people are diagnosing the condition themselves and buying
- digestive aids that contain lactase, a natural enzyme that
- breaks down lactose into its simpler, component sugars. Lactase
- comes in pills or drops meant to be consumed along with dairy
- products, and it is used to treat special brands of milk. Led
- by marketing giants Johnson & Johnson, whose McNeil Consumer
- Products division makes the Lactaid line, and Sterling Winthrop,
- an Eastman Kodak unit that puts out Dairy Ease, the
- lactose-intolerance industry has gone from almost nothing a few
- years ago to 1992 sales of $117 million, up 27% from 1991. Such
- demand is particularly impressive considering the high cost of
- the products: reduced-lactose milk, for instance, costs up to
- twice as much as the ordinary kind.
- </p>
- <p> There is at least an element of truth to the industry's
- pitch. Lactose intolerance, which should not be confused with
- allergy to milk, is a normal part of aging. By some estimates,
- three-quarters of the world's population gradually loses the
- ability to produce lactase inside the body and thus has
- increasing difficulty digesting lactose. People of North
- European ancestry do not succumb as often to the loss and can
- generally handle lactose throughout their lives.
- </p>
- <p> But even those who lack lactase can tolerate milk in
- modest doses--on the order of an 8-oz. glass of milk a day.
- Harmless bacteria that normally reside in the intestines easily
- metabolize the lactose. Unfortunately, these friendly germs
- produce gas as a byproduct of their activity. The more milk
- products consumed, the greater the gas, which can cause
- bloating, diarrhea and abdominal cramps. Downing solid food
- along with milk or eating yogurt that contains active yeast
- cultures cuts down on the amount of lactose that enters the
- intestines. Dr. Michael Levitt, director of research at the
- Veterans Affairs Medical Center in Minneapolis, Minnesota,
- points out that while some degree of lactose intolerance is very
- common, most people don't consume enough dairy products to
- experience a real problem.
- </p>
- <p> The industry's estimate that 50 million Americans suffer
- from noticeable lactose intolerance is an extrapolation from
- studies in which the subjects were given the equivalent of more
- than a quart of milk on an empty stomach. Not many people other
- than those in National Dairy Board commercials actually chug
- that much milk.
- </p>
- <p> "From my perspective, lactose intolerance has been a fad
- for 30 years now," says Dr. Douglas McGill, professor of
- medicine at the Mayo Medical School in Rochester, Minnesota.
- "There is nothing new except that business is after it." And
- business is not about to stop milking a veritable cash cow.
- Coming soon to your neighborhood supermarket: low-lactose
- cottage cheese and infant formula.
- </p>
-
- </body>
- </article>
- </text>
-
-